Whereas a few seasons ago the colour forecast was "brighter than ever", the upcoming colours are predominantly muted.

 

While a few seasons ago the colour forecast was "brighter than ever", the colours that predominate in the forecast for autumn/winter 2024/25 by well-known trend researcher Li Edelkoort are predominantly muted. However, this does not mean that the traditional dark winter colours are strongly represented. Various shades of white, as well as ice blue and orange, appear in several of Edelkoort's mood boards. The colours brown and grey can also be seen in abundance.

Knitwear sets the tone                                           

One of the biggest trends to emerge is the massive return of knitwear in all its forms. "Knitwear was out of fashion for a very long time," says Edelkoort. "There were often only one or two knitwear pieces in a winter collection, the rest were sweatshirts. Knitwear is now becoming very important again. People want to feel safe, and in fashion that means clothes that you have to wrap around you and find support in."

Anyone who thought knitwear was limiting will be proven wrong by Edelkoort. From light knits based on natural fibres to heavy knits with chunky yarns and sexy lace patterns, she promises the craft technique a comeback in all its forms.

The different textures are also reflected, for example through the use of mohair, but also through knitting patterns inspired by baby fashion. There is the traditional cable knit with all its variations, but also knits with bubble patterns.

Knitwear is also versatile. You can opt for a plain version or a more distinctive one with (animal) patterns or large flowers à la Marimekko. You can also play with the finish. Decorative details such as a frill collar, but also fringes and open edges give knitwear its own identity. What should you focus on in autumn/winter season 24? "The cardigan will be very important, especially for men."

 

Huge winter coats, slipper-like shoes

In her trend lecture, Edelkoort analyses how animals and trees hibernate and how this can be used as inspiration for clothing. The most common themes in the preview are garments that people want to hide and wrap themselves up in.

The game of hide-and-seek in blankets, be it quilts or blankets with a chequered pattern, therefore crops up again and again. But they can also be simple but voluminous designs with lots of layering.

Some of Edelkoort's statements during the presentation are particularly noteworthy for retailers. For example, she warns that the down jacket will now really disappear. Winter coats are now made of wool again, are becoming more voluminous and the colour palette is moving between grey and brown. This also serves as a reminder that the colour black is virtually non-existent in the forecast for winter '24. Edelkoort predicted the disappearance of black a few years ago.

When the look and silhouette of coats change, so does the footwear. Slipper-shaped shoes are worn with oversized coats that are reminiscent of fine blankets. "The trainers are quickly disappearing from the scene," explains Edelkoort. "The shoes remain bulky and chunky, but they are moving more in the direction of slippers."

 

Healing becomes the designers' main focus"

In addition to some specific comments relating to individual elements, Edelkoort makes some other important statements. Most prominent is the change in the fashion design profession, which has to do with people's need for physical and mental safety. "Healing' is becoming one of the main focal points in the production of clothing. How can the product help someone mentally? How can you help people?" Creatives would do well to produce less and also have more respect for the materials they work with.

 

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Source: FashionUnited.nl, translation and editing: Barbara Russ